Last night, I cleaned off a small table that I plan to play some small mircoarmor games to compare various modern rule sets. I had mentioned my plans to do this some time ago. Anyway, I laid down the finished river hexes to figure out how I wanted the river to go for these games. When I did, they looked awful in terms of how warped they were! I guess carpet is far more forgiving; but on a hard, flat surface, they really looked bad. It looks like some major geological faulting occurred on the battlefield! More importantly, they would be impractical. Even if I taped them down, they would rock around. They also didn't fit well together because of the warping.
I couldn't bear to throw them in the trash. Its not like it cost much to make them: $4 for two sheets of foamcore, and about $3 for the tube of latex caulk. It was the time I put into them and my little mini-hex forests; that is pretty much all I've worked on for the last several months. My hobby time is limited to an hour or two at night, and that's only if I don't have grading to do, or am just too tired to do anything. So, I stuck them in a plastic bag and found a spot for them on a shelf.
I guess plan B is to use the caulk directly. No mounting them on anything. You'd have to give me a good argument to do so, or guarantee on pain of death that the material you suggest won't warp. I don't want any warping. Just say "NO!" to warping.
1mm plasticard might be warp-proof?
ReplyDeleteI second Paul's recommendation. I use scrap polystyrene from food packaging as a base… no warping.
ReplyDeleteGood post by the way. So often people only post their successes when there's so much more to learn from our failures.
Gentlemen,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comments. Your comments are the kind that makes the online gaming community worthwhile.
Pahoota, I'm drawing a blank on products with polystyrene that haven't been molded to cradle the food item. I've been buying For Sale signs at Walmart for cheap styrene sheets. I could try these.
Thanks for the compliment!